Sunday, January 24, 2010

The Postcard Race: Round 11 “The Beach Round"


It is time for the beach round of the postcard race, no facts, no figuring, no educational tidbits, simply postcards and stickers.

By now you know the rules; first to report receipt wins a prize; something mailed to them from another country.

Strangely it was very difficult to even find any postcards in this tourist zone. Perhaps postcards are disappearing and Uruguay is on the cutting edge of this terrifying trend!

I know that several places I obtained postcards had to pull out ancient cards that they thought they would never sell. Finally we encountered a photographer in Valizas who still kept the faith and made postcards.

Though it costs 17 pesos to mail an international postcard, very few of those stamps could be found, so we had to piece other stamp currencies together. We also had to go to three towns to gather the required amount of stamps.

So look for a postcard like the ones pictured above to arrive in your mailboxes soon!

GOOD LUCK CONTESTANTS!

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Beach Inspectors on the Road


We’ve had a car for a week now. We rented it from Enrique in Chuy (pronounced chewy). Chuy is a frontier town. The broad boulevard “Avenida Internacional” runs between two countries; on one side Uruguay and the other Brazil. We arrived in dusty Chuy mid-morning after the short bus ride from Punta del Diablo, Enrique assured us that around midday a car would be ready for us and sent us off to explore Chuy. This did not take long. The Uruguayan side of the town is lined with one duty free store after another duty free store. The stores all sold the same things, things that can be found in any duty free store in any airport, anywhere: perfume (who buys all this perfume), brand name cosmetics, liquor, chocolate, electronics. We bought a bottle of gin (Bombay Sapphire), chocolate (Toblorone) and a jar of artichoke hearts on the Uruguayan side, and a fly swatter on the Brazilian side.

We arrived back at Enrique’s travel agency, no car yet but he assured us he was already working on plan B. His co-worker (wife too) asked us how we had enjoyed our shopping and I explained that the duty free stores offered nothing I could not find in Vancouver. Does globalization mean the end of variety and uniqueness; will everyone have the very same bag, use the same lotions and sport the same logos? Anyway, she told us about her travels in Canada, of visiting Lake Louise and there in the hotel finding a “Manos de Uruguay” handicraft store. Funny! I told her I wished there was such a store in Chuy.

After lunch, still no car. We decided to fill out the paperwork and pay for our rental so that when the car did arrive we would be ready to hit the road. A rental in cash was nearly half of a rental by credit card so we opted for cash and killed some time at the bank machine. Our two-week rental including insurance was 16,000 Uruguayan Pesos, about (800 US). With these large numbers buying things involves big wads of cash and complicated math. It is unnerving at first spending 500 pesos and then telling yourself that it is only $25. Enrique gave us a strange receipt, it said the funds were for the “concept” of renting a car, this kind of worried us. Off we went again and this time we at least located some postcards, even if they were from the 1950s. By 6PM it was clear that we would not be driving out of there as we dreamed. Our option was to borrow an uninsured car and then come and exchange it for the “concept car” in a few days. “What could possibly happen!” exclaimed Enrique. Enrique did not have the imagination of either Yvonne or I. In any case we took the bus back home with the promise that Enrique would deliver the car to us at our cabin in a few days and true to his word he did.

We have been enjoying exploring the coast, being beach inspectors and location scouts. There is 100 kilometres of dunes from La Paloma in the south to Barra de Chuy in the north. There are some really beautiful beaches! We spent a morning at La Esmeralda, a gorgeous white sand beach that goes forever any way you look. Boogie boarding was impossible. Playing in the waves there was like standing on fine glass shards and being sand blasted, very therapeutic. Our favorite town so far is Barra del Valizes, it had such a very cool relaxed vibe and is next to the UN protected area and national monument of Cabo Polonia, a unique sandy eco-system (no cars, no electricity).

The dunes are so extensive and constantly shifting. The coast has always been treacherous for sailors and tales of shipwrecks, pirates and buried treasures abound. Beach glass is harder to find in this sandy world but plastic litters the beaches and is found too easily. The province of Rocha should ban the plastic bag as well as the plastic water bottles to protect the huge variety of birds. The province boasts large lagoons where many birds thrive, the sounds of birds’ wakes us every morning. Uruguay actually means: “river of the painted birds”

We have walked the full length of Playa Grand now and got to the point. Just around that point we discovered the perfect beach for boogie boarding, in Santa Teresa National Park. We love the National Park not only for the beach but also because of our favorite restaurant; they make fish (Brotola) with a fantastic pepper sauce and super great fries. Playa Del Barco is a somewhat protected bay and the waves are strong yet gentle enough to keep the fun level up and the danger level down.


I am trying to master the parrella for bbqing. It is such a fantastic system, (pictured here). First you have a fire (I know we are burning up the trees) to make your coals then you use the coals for cooking: vegetables in tinfoil, roasted peppers and beautiful meat. All the cuts of meat are different here and named differently, for the bbq we prefer the pichana, a thick cut with a layer of fat to keep it moist. This we can cook from “jugoso” (rare) to well done. I think there should be a cooking show dedicated to cooking with the parrilla. So photogenic, such an ingenious design and oh so delicious!

www.flickr.com


Tuesday, January 12, 2010

On the East Side


Thirty years ago, Punta del Diablo was a small fishing village where intrepid Uruguayans and other travellers would venture for a rugged beach “get away from it all” in the sand dunes by the sea. Today it is the destination location for youth. Tons of young people are here, camping or renting cabins together. There are venues all over where probably every Uruguayan band plays in January; including two large corral-like structures on the back end of town where DJ’s spin till the wee hours.

January is high season. We did not begin looking for a place here until early December, and by some miracle and Yvonne’s adept internet research skills, we landed ourselves an excellent cabin in the somewhat manicured suburbs near the dunes at the end of Playa Rivero. We love our little cabin; wrap around deck, doors and window that open all around to let in the cooling breezes, a parrilla on the deck (traditional wood burning Uruguayan BBQ; an essential part of every home all over Uruguay), and a very well equipped kitchen. Yvonne and I are the first guests in this brand new cabin. Though we have heard tales of sleeping with earplugs during January, we seem to thankfully be in some freakish zone of quiet.

The town is full of lots for sale and new constructions, from shacks to more luxurious accommodations. Many very cute, painted brightly, super surfer’s scene beach townie. Not knowing anything about the town’s codes or bylaws; it all seems very hap-hazard anarchistic. If we came back in a few years, or perhaps next week, the landscape would have changed.

We rented boogie boards and went out to Playa Rivero (the closest beach to us) for our maiden voyage. The weather here has been what one could call variable; high winds, extreme heat, cloudy, rainy, hazy, thunder-stormy. Our first day in the waves was windy and the surf on Playa Rivero was brutal. Very, very strong, relentless waves that left us breathless, wishing we had knee-pads and not staying too long. We discovered that surf on Playa Rivero is never gentle no matter what the weather. Yet, Playa Rivero is the most popular meeting place and by noon it is wall-to-wall beach umbrellas and chairs and volleyball and, well, not our favorite kind of beach.


Down our street in the other direction, a longer walk, over the dunes we discovered Playa Grande, a more deserted beach with a kinder, gentler surf and wide-open spaces. It is our preferred beach.


Before long we learned that the Atlantic is never gentle, when we floated out on our boards at Playa Grande and the waves turned us topsy-turvey, which brought the “guarda vida” (life guard) down from his observation shack to inform us that floating was not allowed ”always keep your feet on the sand”! OK we are being super cautious now! The guardavidas utilize flags of yellow and red (perhaps they have other colours too) to indicate no go zones and the strength of the surf. Tomorrow I will ask what they mean exactly so as to prevent further incidents.


The atmosphere of Punta del Diablo just makes me crave fish tacos and other Mexican delicacies, not a popular food group in Uruguay. But today we found Mamacitas, a restaurant that serves up tacos with guacamole and Tabasco for hot sauce. Delicious. We have also been testing empanadas from a number of locations and have determined that the women who deep-fry them fresh in their small stand in the artisans’ market win our taste test. Our store, plus bakery, a few blocks away, has almost everything we need. They are open 24 hours in high season, and it is often so packed that they close the gate to let people out before others can go in. The economy here is definitely geared to make hay while the sun shines in December, January and February, which makes us think that March and April or November would be lovely loners paradise.

For being all geared to tourism, the shocking news is that there is not a postcard to be found anywhere! I feel a road trip coming on. The sweet palapa (open concept) restaurant 30 meters from our house provides free WiFi and so we are not as off the grid as we thought we would be.

A small-motorized vehicle, kind of a wagon being pulled by a motorcycle, picked up our laundry today and will deliver it here tomorrow. Garbage pick-up (just throw it all in together) is everyday. After seeing those horrifying images posted recently by Kris K on facebook (http://chrisjordan.com/current_set2.php?id=11) I am dismayed by the over use of plastic everything; bags and bottles that inevitably find their way to the dunes and the sea and the beaches. The plastic bag ban needs to make its way here soon!

A charming, typically Uruguayan thing has been catching my eye here; people walk clutching in the crook of their arms (hugged tightly to their chest) tall metal thermoses full of hot water to add to their gourd full of yerba matte in their hand. This method leaves one hand free for carrying other things, smoking, talking on your cell phone, holding-hands, driving your 4X4 or ready for any eventuality. Is this learned behavior? I must collect some photos.

What we are reading:

R2

The Book Thief

The Queen of the South

Twilight (lame)

YP

The Devil in the White City

The Best Travel Writing 2008

Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?

The Girl with Braided Hair

The Gringo Trail

Until I Find You

The City of Falling Angels

www.flickr.com



Monday, January 4, 2010

La course des cartes postales-Nous avons des lauréats pour tour 10! The Postcard Race- round 10 winners announced!


Félicitations à Moira et Trish de Montréal, qui ont reçu et ont déclaré avoir reçu leurs tour 10 carte postale, avant tout le monde, le dernier jour de 2009.

Il est si agréable d'avoir un gagnant de l'Est du Canada. Nous allons être à la recherche du marché à Punta del Diablo (une belle plage sur la côte orientale de l'Uruguay) pour quelque chose de particulier pour vous deux. Way to go Gals! et les employés des services postaux, de Montréal, Québec.


The Postcard Race Round #10

December in Buenos Aires

“Portenos” (people who live in Buenos Aires) are Spanish-speaking Italians, educated by the British who want to be French”.

“The Falklands thing was a fight between two bald men over a comb”

“Any time something is written against me, I not only share the sentiment but feel I could do the job far better myself. Perhaps I should advise would-be enemies to send me their grievances beforehand, with full assurance that they will receive my every aid and support. I have even secretly longed to write, under a pen name, a merciless tirade against myself”

Jorge Luis Borges - Argentine writer

Avenida 9 de Julio, wandering through the center of the Microcentre ( downtown ) is the widest street in the world at an imposing sixteen lanes.

In Buenos Aires there are over 180 city bus lines called Colectivos, each one managed by an individual company. These compete with each other, and attract exceptionally high use with virtually no public financial support. Buses cover a far wider area than the underground system. Colectivos in Buenos Aires are painted distinctly and beautifully. With very cheap tickets and extensive routes, the colectivo is the most popular mode of transport around the city. The routes map/guide is a challenge.

Tango music was born in the suburbs of Buenos Aires, notably in the brothels of the Junín y Lavalle district and in the arrabales (poorer suburbs). Its sensual dance moves were not seen as respectable until adopted by the Parisian high society in the 1920s, and then accepted all over the world.

Madres de la Plaza de Mayo are Argentine mothers whose children "disappeared" during the “Dirty War”, the military dictatorship between 1976 and 1983. They have protested every Thursday for 30 years. As perpetrators of the crimes have come to trial, The Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo formed, this human rights organization aims to find the babies stolen during the dictatorship. Every Thursday at 3:30 they can be seen in the plaza wearing their distinctive white headscarves.

Extensive use of the Argentine interjection "che", which is used the same way as "hey" or "pal"was the nickname famously given to Ernesto Guevara as the sole Argentine on the Granma, an old, leaky cabin cruiser the first step in Castro's revolutionary plan; an assault on Cuba from Mexico.

Alfonsina Storni 1892–-1938, is considered one of the most prominent Latin-American women poets of the 20th century. Inspired by her own experiences, Storni courageously wrote about the struggles of woman in modern urban society, advocating equality for women and bemoaning the inadequacies of romantic relationships in a male-dominated society. Her subject matter focuses on themes of love and death. The development of her work during her career changed from traditional rhyme and meter to experimental forms of free verse.

The bandoneón is a type of concertina popular in Argentina and Uruguay. It plays an essential role in the tango orchestra. Originally intended as an instrument for religious music, to replace the organ; immigrants to Argentina brought the instrument with them in the late 19th century and incorporated it into the local music.

Bandoneons are now near extinction. The economic crisis pushed prices up benefiting stronger markets. More bandoneons are being stolen from musicians to support the export market outside Argentina.The best instruments were built over 60 years ago, and there are no local builders making the instruments today.

Astor Piazzolla (1921 –1992) was an Argentine tango composer and bandoneón player. His work revolutionized the traditional tango into a new style termed nuevo tango, incorporating elements from jazz and classical music.

“I was born in Mar del Plata, Argentina, raised in New York, found my way while in París, but every time I get on the stage, people know I’m going to play the music of Buenos Aires.” “I think the sadness present in Argentine music is very oriental. Why is tango oriental music? Because Brazilian music, has its roots in Africa, represented by percussion, by drums, by rhythm. In Argentina, in tango music, there is no percussion, there is no rhythm, it cannot be found. The Brazilian is extroverted, while Argentina is introverted, that is why he suffers not the Brazilian.”

Tourists are flocking to Buenos Aires combining sightseeing and tango lessons with a session under the plastic surgeon's knife. Facelifts, boob jobs, nose jobs, fat reduction and penis enlargement - the capital's numerous 'boutique' clinics provide all these at prices way below the US and Europe. While most return home delighted with their new bodies, there is growing concern in Argentina about the pressure on women, the young especially, to conform to the culture epitomized by supermodels and movie stars. The government responded to the rising incidence of anorexia (only Japan has a higher rate) by introducing a law forcing clothes designers and retailers in Buenos Aires to cater for larger sizes and fining those who don't comply.

María Eva Duarte de Perón was the 2nd wife and political partner of President Juan Perón. An important political figure in her own right, she was known for her campaign for female suffrage, her support of organized labor groups, and her organization of a vast social welfare program that benefited and gained the support of the lower classes. In all of Latin America, only one other woman has aroused an emotion, devotion and faith comparable to those awakened by Evita; the Virgin of Guadalupe. In many homes, the image of Evita is on the wall next to the Virgin.

Jorge Luis Borges 1899-1986; Argentine poet, essayist, and short-story writer, whose tales of fantasy and dream worlds are classics of the 20th-century literature. European culture, English literature, and thinkers, who argued that there is no material substance, profoundly influenced Borges; the sensible world consists only of ideas, which exist for so long as they are perceived. Most of Borges's tales embrace universal themes - the often-recurring circular labyrinth a metaphor of life or a riddle which theme is time.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

A country house with horses



There was no better way to spend the New Year's weekend than at La Salamora, way up in the sierra about 2 hours north of Montevideo, near the town of Minas. Bigger than rolling hills, smaller than mountains, la sierra is the perfect landscape for any western film; gorgeous grassy rises as far as the eye can see; horses, cows and sheep free ranging all around. It's idyllic. Mild temperatures and periodic rainfall all year long to allow the animals to be outside and live off the grass land. Imagine, no cleaning out the stalls.



La Salamora sits up high on a hill, a lovely country lodge, Alicia our host is involved in a variety of projects to restore bio-diversity and uncover the historic significance of this very special landscape.

It was great to be breathing country air , feeling the very cool breezes,( yes a jacket might have been good), walking, riding, exploring. The sunsets, the big sky, the clouds, the quiet.

We slept very well and very deeply. This was a perfect introduction to Uruguay, over dinner we heard about growing up during the dictatorship, the new education innovation where 400,000 free laptops were distributed to elementary school children and town squares were all equipped with WiFi. The Uruguayan people who drink yerba matte all the time see themselves as very distinct on the continent. Being such a small country of about 3 million people they begin every conversation by establishing friends or relatives in common.



We rode to the castle of the alchemist and spied on the house way up in the hills, where Tibetan Buddhists, with a little help from Richard Gere, have built a temple on a power spot. There is an old lime oven on the land, that provided tons of lime to build Buenos Aires and to aid with burials. The ovens used hectares of wood to process the lime and so explains the lack of trees on the windy hills. It was a very special place that could serve as the setting for any magic realism novel.

Around 11, New year's Eve, a neighbour came by with two llamas in his truck , he needed help dropping them off , so, after settling in the llamas he joined us for a lovely meal and a toast to the year and the extraordinary full blue moon. We won't have another moon again on the last day of the year for 28 years.



A new addition to the ranch was Lola, a puppy that appeared on the land at christmas. Lola was probably part of hunters' dog pack. They hunt that really scary wild pigs that are an unfortunate cross between boars and domestic pigs that live in the forest and only come out at night; what would a perfect landscape be without something scary! Anyway Lola reminded me so much of Mackenzie when she came to us , perhaps I should bring Lola home to trade for getting Mackenzie back.



We returned to Montevideo, from Minas on the oh so efficient, comfortable, air-conditioned buses that leave and arrive exactly right on time and are happily ensconced in the Sur Hotel. The cab driver that dropped us at the hotel got out and gave us both a hug to welcome us to Uruguay; he was so happy we were from Canada, such a beautiful country, and that we were spending so much time here.
http://www.lasalamora.com