The Postcard Race: Round 4: Winner Announced

Congratulations to Cheryl McEnaney of Los Angeles, California. Cheryl is the winner of The Postcards Race: Round 4. Cheryl reported receiving her postcard on Tuesday, June 23.

Tomorrow on our bus trip to Katapala we will be searching the port for something special to send her.

Way to go Cheryl and the postal workers of Los Angeles , California!

The Postcard Race Round #4

June in Aigiali, Amorgos

Anecdotes about Amorgos

Greek Islands; over 6000 of them, dot the Aegean, Ionian and Mediterranean Sea but only 227 are inhabited. 39 islands, (24 inhabited), make up The Cyclades, the most famous of all Greek Islands including Amorgos, Anafi, Andros, Antiparos, Delos, Ios, Kea, Kimolos, Folegandros, Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Serifos, Sikinos, Sifnos, Syros and Tinos.

Amorgos is the island is where the French filmmaker, Luc Besson, shot some scenes of his famous film, The Big Blue; including the opening scene on the quay at Aigiali. Because art influences life, a large part of tourism on the island is French.

Amorgos, the most easterly of the Cycladic Islands, is a narrow island about 40km long. It consists of bare, precipitous cliffs rising lonely and eerie. Although in the middle of the open sea, it literally obscures the horizon to the traveller coming from the west, as if blocking any sailing beyond its’ boundary, giving the newcomer the impression that the end of the world must be somewhere near.

According to ancient mythology, King Minos of Crete ruled a second kingdom on Amorgos, where remains of the ancient Minoan civilization have been found. The remains of 3 ancient fifth century BC cities are on the island: Minoa, Akro Kastri and Vigla. The King’s summer residence was said to be at the site of Minoa.

The extraordinary Monastery of Hozoviotissa (pride of Amorgos) is built on a steep cliff, visible only from the sea. Legend tells that during the Iconoclastic period, a woman from Chotziva, Palestine placed an icon of the Virgin Mary in a boat that arrived in Amorgos. The inhabitants decided to build the Monastery high on the rock where the iron "chisel" of the master builder was found, a sign from the Virgin Mary.

Amorgos has two ports, Katapola and Aigiali. The capital of the island Chora, is way up on the Profitis Ilias Mountain, unseen from the sea, protecting it from pirates. Pirates have ravaged the islands many times throughout history and because of its perfect location; the pirates not only raided but also settled and used Katapola as a base.

A delicious drink from an ancient recipe; The Amorgian Rakomelo, is the traditional liquor of Amorgos: raki distilled from grapes, local honey, cinnamon and cloves makes it a must after dinner, they say to serve chilled but great at room temperature too!

Electricity arrived in Aigiali in the early 80’s and the quay to receive ferries was built in 1982. A road linking the Island’s two ports; Aigiali and Katapola with Chora, the capital, was only completed in 1998. Before that transportation was by boat or on the vast network of ancient footpaths linking all the villages.

Greek Independence (1821) improved security and conditions for Amorgos. At that time the island was self-sufficient and exported many products including wine, olive oil, honey, herbs, cotton, silk, timber and tobacco. Signs of terraced fields are everywhere. These days, Amorgos has a population of 2000 people, with numbers growing considerably in summer. Most things are imported to the island now, BUT signs of local production are increasing.

On Amorgos the summer is hot, with the cooling “meltemia” (north winds) coming in August.

The tomatoes are ripening

As we get closer to July 1st, more holidayers are arriving in Aigiali. I wouldn't say it is crowded but there are more people wandering up and down the beach disturbing the village ducks who like to hunker down and nap by the stone wall. There are just two of them who sometimes do circular swimming demonstrations in the sea and can be surely found in town, near the pier, every evenings waiting for some fish dinner, I guess.

Coming from the world of covered women this is quite a contrast since the Europeans seem to make every beach a topless beach and so there are plenty of topless sun worshippers tanning out there. With the arrival of more tourists, they say "maybe next week " there will be expanded bus schedules and the little caiques to take us to other beaches and on little boat rides. I am quite excited by a bit of beach hopping, since instead of joining facebook, I have joined a virtual community of people who, like me, collect beach glass (YES there is a group for anyone who does anything on the web) (seaglasslovers.ning.com), now I can talk with like minded people about the intricacies of my fascinating hobby and even make "friends" like facebook.

Last week we rented a car to explore the island. Yvonne (driver) seemed to think the road was quite terrifying, I felt it was no worse than the road to Tofino, but she insisted the lack of shoulders, the sheer drops and the less than gradual hairpin turns made it scary! I was enjoying the many goats on and beside the road munching away and the spectacular views.

We went all the 35KM to the southern tip and passed through many little villages along the way , including Suzo, some of them in ruins. There are more churches then anything and they are all freshly painted that beautiful white, white with the regulation blue top. In the next few weeks all the churches are celebrating their particular feast days so communities are sprucing up their churches for their special days.

We visited the capital Chora, bigger than it looks once you enter the labyrinth, (we had business at the Post Office); toured the lovely little village of Vroutsi; swam at Mourou where you can swim into caves and tunnels , (not for claustrophobics). Looking down from the top of the beach path to Mourou beach the incredible clear, blue sea it seems you can see right through the swimmers below. We had lunch at a new restaurant/hotel Anemolithi Amorgos Studios with a fantastic deck view and decor (which wasn't really open but opened for us) including a tour of the rooms. The art was by a local photographer Maik Efthimios, who has taken some excellent shots all around Amorgos.

It was a great day but we were both (especially Yvonne) glad to arrive home to what we concluded was the best spot on the island. So, the tomatoes are ripening, we have neighbours in our little maisonette, we are getting browner and all is well.

What we are reading:

R2: The Flea Palace - Elif Shafak

Birds Without Wings - Louis de Bernieres

YP: April Fool's Day- Josip Novakovich(not recommended)

Netherland- Joseph O'Neill(very charming)

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo-Steg Larsson (never been fond of the mystery but found this charming)

The Haunting of Hip Hip-Bertrice Berry(cute, moralistic tale)

The Postcard Race: Round 4: June on Amorgos

Since there will be three rounds from Amorgos it was important to distinguish each round and so Round 4 is "Kitty Cats of Greece" round; apologies to Patty Moore who rightly notes that the romantic portrayal of the cats on postcards in Greece, who have been cleaned up for their photo shoots, don't resemble the cats who scavenge around. BUT I say, " I would rather be a Kitty Cat of Greece on Amorgos then a cat of Istanbul."

Round 4 features "anecdotes about Amorgos". The first person to notify us (by telling us on the blog or emailing yvonne or rachel) that you have received the postcard and to relate the "anecdote about Amorgos" thing on the back will win "something mailed to you from another country!" So watch for your Kitty Cat arriving in your mailbox soon, I hope. Good Luck everyone!

Postcards for Round 4 were sent from three different mailboxes in the neighbourhood, the mailbox in Aigiali, the mailbox in Langada and the mailbox in Tholaria. Will all the post cards leave the island on the same ferry? Who knows? Will they all go to one central office for official Amorgos stamping then ferry together to Athens?It is hard to say.

Perhaps I will learn more about the postal system here on the island since tomorrow we will be visiting the main Post Office in the capital Chora, the only place one can mail a package from. We will be mailing a package to Lori and Audrhea winners of round 3. Please let us know when the winning package arrives.

Another beautiful day on Amorgos

On Sunday we were up at the crack of dawn; just about the same time the last of the karaoke singers were leaving the disco at the hotel that overlooks us, high from a hill. The great thing about having centuries of civilization without paved roads is that there are these footpaths through the landscape far away from roads that go anywhere you might want to go, a lovely way to see the countryside. (Instead of having to walk on the side of the dam roads, like many places in Canada, where a car might take you and your dog out at any moment).

We took ye olde footpath up to Tholaria, another little town above the Port of Aigiali (where we stay). But these days you have to get up pretty early in the morning for your walk or else it is way too hot and sunny for ancient footpath walks. I am hoping for a bit of a light drizzle and some cloud-cover to do the 16k trip from Aigiali to Chora, which takes you along a very high ridge that you see from our deck. It was only about 175 years ago that an oak forest covered the hillsides around Aigiali, but fire destroyed the forest, which would have improved the walking conditions considerably.

Not long after our arrival in Tholaria, church bells began calling the faithful, we peeked our heads into the beautiful, candlelit scene crammed full of those Byzantine gold leaf paintings of saints and the virgin with Jesus (replicas can be bought in every Greek souvenir store), but alas women need to wear frocks to enter the church.

We opted for the delicious cheese and tomato omelets and fresh orange juice and a trip to ancient Aigiali. Like all the towns old towns on Amorgos, Ancient Aigiali is built so not to be seen from the sea for protections from pirates and other passing travellers. Pirates have ravaged the islands many times throughout history and because of its perfect location, far from whatever protectorate; the pirates not only raided but also settled and used the Amogos' other port Katapola as a base. From the Goths to the Vandals to the Saracens , the Venetians, the Turks; Amorgos endured many rulers before Greek Independence (1821) improved security and conditions for Amorgos. At that time the island was self-sufficient and exported many products including wine, olive oil, honey, herbs, cotton, silk, timber and tobacco. Signs of terraced fields are everywhere. Then there was the Germans, (see film Captain Corelli's Mandolin).

While up in Tholaria a huge, warm, wind came from the north. It was steady, relentless and strong. Apparently not the cooling North wind of August called "meltemia" but some other wind. It got in under the carpets and howled through the shutters, slamming doors and blowing curtains billowing everywhere. Swimming was exciting as the waves fought to come, as usual from the south, while the wind was making opposite waves . The wind lasted two days and now have calmed down considerably.

We have cooked Caribbean gazpacho, potato salad, avglolemono soup, lots of tomato, onion and cucumber salads and now we are onto the eggplant curry. On Monday, (our two week anniversary) we ventured back to Langada for dinner at Nikos Taverna; (goat in the oven and really fantastic zucchini pie that I must learn to make). Nikos drove us home since the cab that he likes was in Katapola and well, he does not like the other driver. He had heard me ask for rabbit (apparently only the Australians like rabbit) and said next time we come to call ahead and he will kill a rabbit for us...(sorry Tricia).

The most expensive thing in Aigiali is sunscreen at 20 euros a small bottle of the strong stuff and the best deal is the gyro pita packed with stuff (pork, tzatsiki, tomatoes, onions and oddly couple of fries) for 2 euros a very economical and delicious dinner.

This morning was a back on our stony beach for our first swim of the day and a very good day for beach glass collecting.

We LOVE our new Greek Life!!

 We love:

-swimming every single day, sometimes twice

-the smell of Greek laundry soap

-fresh bread from the neighbouring village(because our host says its better and she shares their loaf with us)

-spanakopita from our bakery

-waking up to the sound of the sea and nothing else(well, maybe a mule braying or the ferry leaving)

-collecting beach glass for a future project

-my new hat from a shop in Katapola

-Greek yogurt with fresh plums from our yard and fresh honey from our hosts' bees

-Mythos beer

- beautiful feta cheese- Rachel even likes goat cheese now

-the sun- we are slowly able to not squint and our skin is slowly turning from red to brown

-the wind- makes for interesting swimming

-Altar- our hosts' dog who has taken to coming to visit us in our house

-getting up at night and going onto the balcony to look out to sea, or getting up pre-dawn to do the same, or lying in bed looking out the balcony at the full moon

-our house which is so fantastic and comfortable and luxurious and private and perfect we may never leave

MORE LISTS TO COME

Met Ann and Janice from Yorkshire, England several days ago, lovely gals who made us laugh out loud repeatedly.  We were all on the same bus heading to Katapola and ended up in the same cafe later on drinking Caffe Freddos(the best iced cappuccino I have ever had).  I went to the bathroom and newly social butterfly Rocco had started chatting them up. 

 I had spotted them earlier when the bus was loading and thought, "I think those gals are our people, or as Suzo says, "They must go to the same barber."  They too, well especially Ann, had a problem with the whole issue of putting on a skirt to be able to get into the monastery.  We joked about the "so-wrongs", they hiked to the location and had a look around but didn't go in.  We invited them over to our house the following day for gin and tonics(which ended up being beers) and had a great visit, talking about books, movies, work, people, countries, politics and of course travel.

What we are reading:

YP- just finished Pilgrim by Timothy Findley

R2- just finished The Garden of Departed Cats by Bilge Karasu (Turkish Writer)

What we are viewing:

Weeds- Season Five just started- very happy

The Burning Plain, The Lucky Ones- movies

In Treatment- we continue to slog through this series a bit painful for a Greek island in summer.

State of Play- British series on which the current movie is based- we will start tonite.

www.flickr.com

Paradise Found

Paradise Found

It has only taken 51 and 46 years respectively, but Rachel and I have finally arrived in Paradise. Amorgos Island is everything that we wished for and much, much more. Rachel is already scheming and planning our next trip or life here, maybe Tides Canada, Amorgos Island Branch?

Beautiful beaches, ours a mere 50 meters from our house, crystal clear water, lots of sun and wind which keeps it cool. Our town, Aigiali, is very small and is about 500 meters from our residence. It has a great grocery store and when I went to buy groceries and water and beer, Yannis, the owner, offered to give me a ride to deliver the groceries, even though I made prior arrangement with our hosts. Truly fantastic!!

We arrived very late on Monday night, about 1:30 in the morning and were met by our hosts. When we are arrived at our house, we discovered they had stocked our larder with cheese, tomatos, coffee, bread, fruits, honey, crackers, olives, Amorgian olive oil, two types of vinegar, hot chocolate, capers, etc. What a welcome!! I know many of you have been subjected to repeated viewing of the website showing our place on Amorgos, but the website does not begin to show how beautiful this maisonette really is. Two levels, top with bedroom and full bathroom (with a tub- I must confess I almost started to cry when I saw this) and huge balcony. Bottom level, sitting room, the cutest most functional kitchen I have even seen, windows which look onto yet another deck (with clothesline!!) and then to farm land ahead of the house, another bathroom with shower.

0ur hosts, Yuli and Yorgos are interesting and lovely people. Yuli is a web designer and documentary film maker, passionate advocate of the environment and also of the history of Amorgos. Yorgos is a house builder and all round handyman and creator who is constantly working. He is also passionate about the environment and the state of the world.

Right now we are the only guests in the 3 suite house, as the other two suites are undergoing renos. Both Yorgos and Yuli, like many small island dwellers, have many jobs and work all the time, on top of trying to reno and get the other suites ready for guests. The surrounding land belongs to Yorgos’ father and family, his brother lives in an adjacent house and there are olive trees, winter crops (right now the fava beans are being harvested), a vegetable garden, and many fruit trees. Apparently the plums will be ready in a day or so, as well as more tomatoes.

Food is good, fresh tomatos and cucumbers, beautiful feta cheese, and we have just arrived in time for the spring cheese (myzithra, a very soft, super delicious variety) which only lasts a few months, gleaned from lactating goats. I had a dish called patatato last night at a restaurant which basically means meat and potatoes braised in juice, usually it is made with goat, but mine was with lamb, it was so good, I was in the bowl with my hands (yes Meghna I did think of you). We were dining with Patty Moore’s and her students who are here on a Greece field school trip!! Patty actually introduced us to the island and are we glad she did. The prices in this restaurant as with others, seem very reasonable and service very friendly. Yuli, one of our hosts, came after to dinner to speak to the students about environmental issues affecting the island and also about local history.

Rachel has many hikes planned for us, as you can well imagine, there are several other towns on the island, Katapola, another port town, Hora-the capital, Langada, Thorlia, Osmos, and Patmos, among others. There are many foot paths connecting these towns, the road between Aigiali and Katapola, both port towns, was only built in 1997 and electricity has been only been on the island since 1987. All the hillsides are terraced and the views as you can imagine are very striking.

Just got back from a day hike to Langada, apparently Yuli does this hike in 15 minutes, but it took us about an hour, in the blasting heat. We had lunch at Nikos Taverna, baked eggplant with tomates and cheese the spicy one called "Kafteri" , very tasty and had a little walk about. We met the local herb specialist and her husband who is a accupunturist and stocked up on some Amorgian herbs. The path to Lagada was one of these “ye olde ancient paths”, as you see….boy was I glad when this was over and I could once again dive into the crystal clear water!!!

YP