On Sunday we were up at the crack of dawn; just about the same time the last of the karaoke singers were leaving the disco at the hotel that overlooks us, high from a hill. The great thing about having centuries of civilization without paved roads is that there are these footpaths through the landscape far away from roads that go anywhere you might want to go, a lovely way to see the countryside. (Instead of having to walk on the side of the dam roads, like many places in Canada, where a car might take you and your dog out at any moment).
We took ye olde footpath up to Tholaria, another little town above the Port of Aigiali (where we stay). But these days you have to get up pretty early in the morning for your walk or else it is way too hot and sunny for ancient footpath walks. I am hoping for a bit of a light drizzle and some cloud-cover to do the 16k trip from Aigiali to Chora, which takes you along a very high ridge that you see from our deck. It was only about 175 years ago that an oak forest covered the hillsides around Aigiali, but fire destroyed the forest, which would have improved the walking conditions considerably.
Not long after our arrival in Tholaria, church bells began calling the faithful, we peeked our heads into the beautiful, candlelit scene crammed full of those Byzantine gold leaf paintings of saints and the virgin with Jesus (replicas can be bought in every Greek souvenir store), but alas women need to wear frocks to enter the church.
We opted for the delicious cheese and tomato omelets and fresh orange juice and a trip to ancient Aigiali. Like all the towns old towns on Amorgos, Ancient Aigiali is built so not to be seen from the sea for protections from pirates and other passing travellers. Pirates have ravaged the islands many times throughout history and because of its perfect location, far from whatever protectorate; the pirates not only raided but also settled and used the Amogos' other port Katapola as a base. From the Goths to the Vandals to the Saracens , the Venetians, the Turks; Amorgos endured many rulers before Greek Independence (1821) improved security and conditions for Amorgos. At that time the island was self-sufficient and exported many products including wine, olive oil, honey, herbs, cotton, silk, timber and tobacco. Signs of terraced fields are everywhere. Then there was the Germans, (see film Captain Corelli's Mandolin).
While up in Tholaria a huge, warm, wind came from the north. It was steady, relentless and strong. Apparently not the cooling North wind of August called "meltemia" but some other wind. It got in under the carpets and howled through the shutters, slamming doors and blowing curtains billowing everywhere. Swimming was exciting as the waves fought to come, as usual from the south, while the wind was making opposite waves . The wind lasted two days and now have calmed down considerably.
We have cooked Caribbean gazpacho, potato salad, avglolemono soup, lots of tomato, onion and cucumber salads and now we are onto the eggplant curry. On Monday, (our two week anniversary) we ventured back to Langada for dinner at Nikos Taverna; (goat in the oven and really fantastic zucchini pie that I must learn to make). Nikos drove us home since the cab that he likes was in Katapola and well, he does not like the other driver. He had heard me ask for rabbit (apparently only the Australians like rabbit) and said next time we come to call ahead and he will kill a rabbit for us...(sorry Tricia).
The most expensive thing in Aigiali is sunscreen at 20 euros a small bottle of the strong stuff and the best deal is the gyro pita packed with stuff (pork, tzatsiki, tomatoes, onions and oddly couple of fries) for 2 euros a very economical and delicious dinner.
This morning was a back on our stony beach for our first swim of the day and a very good day for beach glass collecting.
2 comments:
Wow, it looks like you are in freakin' paradise!
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